THE CITY OF WONDERS

A Souvenir of the World’s Fair.

BY

MARY CATHERINE CROWLEY

CHAPTER 13. LAST VIEW OF THE CITY OF WONDERS

[For other installments of our serialization of The City of Wonders (1894), see the Table of Contents]

A watercolor by Harley DeWitt Nichols of the Womanโ€™s Building of the 1893 Worldโ€™s Columbian Exposition, designed by Sophia Hayden. [Image from Bancroft, Hubert Howe The Book of the Fair. The Bancroft Company, 1893.]

โ€œOh, dear, this is our last day at the World’s Fair!โ€ lamented Nora the next morning.

โ€œWe must try to make the most of it,โ€ said Ellen.

The girls having decided that they would like to go first to the Women’s Building, Uncle Jack and Aleck followed them thither.[1] The latter wandered about the immense edifice, feeling, as he expressed it, โ€œvery like a fish out of waterโ€; but Mr. Barrett was much interested in the exhibits.

โ€œWhy, this resembles the ideal domain of Tennyson’s Princess!โ€ he said,โ€” โ€œa palace designedย and governed by women, and adorned exclusively with their work.[2] The result is a magnificent display, and shows, my dear nieces, that whatever a girl has talent for, she nowadays has the opportunity of learning to do well,โ€”a proficiency which will make her gently self-reliant and helpful to others, and will furnish her with the means of support if necessary. This is very important in an era when so many women are not only obliged to earn their own livelihood, but are often the dependence of aged parents or helpless little ones; and it is a hopeful outlook that so wide a field of occupation is open to them. Suppose, Nora, you had a clever pencil, a sense of proportion, and were quick at figures. These drawings and estimates furnished by young women show that you might become an architect and would be able to plan as good houses as your brother could with the same tastes. Here again are some beautiful stained-glass windows designed by women, while the mural paintings are considered remarkably fine.โ€[3]

The rotunda of the Womanโ€™s Building featured notable murals by women painters. [Image from Unsere Weltausstellung. Eine Beschreibung der Columbischen Weltausstellung in Chicago, 1893. Fred. Klein Co. 1894.]

Aleck was duly impressed. He had not known that ladies had taken up these branches of industry; but, being convinced that his mother, for instance, could accomplish anything she attempted, he was not surprised at their success. To the girls the Women’s Building was verily a House Beautiful. They appreciated the decorations and furnishings of the library, as well as its contents, for it was filled with books written by women. They became enthusiastic over the exhibit of the Cincinnati Pottery Club, which demonstrated the progress of keramics in this country, and the tapestries, needlework, and specimens of decorative painting and wood carving from the New York and Philadelphia art schools. Then there was the large gallery of pictures, the statuary in marble and bronze, the section devoted to engravings and etchings.

โ€œIt would take a week to examine all the exquisite things collected here,โ€ Ellen averred.

โ€œNow we come to the industries which are distinctively womanly,โ€ said Uncle Jack, โ€œand the catalogue states that even royal ladies have contributed to this department.โ€

In fact, in the exhibit of Great Britain, some of the handiwork of Queen Victoriaย and her daughters was presently pointed out to the girls. Later, in the main hall, they saw the exquisite point-lace sent by the Empress Frederic of Germany; and the valuable laces, of obsolete patterns, belonging to Marguerita of Italy. The Empresses of Russia and Austria were, they found, also represented. Their attention was engrossed, too, by the splendid Russian and Spanish ecclesiastical embroideries, consisting of cloths. of gold and silver overwrought with pearls and other gems,โ€”the work of ladies of the nobility; also by the Japanese and the intricate Turkish embroideries, the latter done by Mahometan women. In short, here was exhibited the work of women of all civilized nations and ranks of society, from the crowned princess to the peasant. And all were portrayed in the light that is fairer than any other, that which dignifies the lowly, and before which the glitter that surrounds a throne grows dim, the light of true womanliness.

โ€œAmid this comprehensive exhibit,โ€ said Mr. Barrett, โ€œI am pleased to see how important a place is occupied by the industries of that land which has struggled for them against so many obstacles. I mean, of course, the Green Isle of Erin. The looms of France show no handsomer fabric than that white Irish poplin yonder, brocaded in gold with Prince of Wales’ feathers; these church vestments are very fine, too; and no decorative needlework of the art societies can compare with the beauty of some of these laces wrought in Irish cabins. As for pottery, look at this Belleek ware, the clay of which resembles that of the costliest Dresden. How exquisite its delicate, creamy color and iridescent glaze! It is like ivory and mother-of-pearl combined. Services of Belleek have been ordered by royalty as gifts for princes, you know.โ€

The Model Kitchen in the Womanโ€™s Building. [Image from Bancroft, Hubert Howe The Book of the Fair. The Bancroft Company, 1893.]

Upstairs the girls came upon a spacious kitchen, fitted up with all the modern appliances for cookery. A lady, who had evidently made a study of the subject, was giving a practical lecture all the culinary art; but they did not stop to hear it, as Uncle Jack was waiting for them to go to luncheon, which they took in the restaurant of the building.[4]

The Childrenโ€™s Building, designed by Alexander Sandier of Paris. [Image from Bancroft, Hubert Howe The Book of the Fair. The Bancroft Company, 1893.]

Afterward they all went on to the Children’s Building.

โ€œIt is just like a big playhouse!โ€ exclaimed Ellen.

โ€œHere ‘s a toy show that looks as if it had been sent to the Exposition straight from Kris Kringle’s country,โ€ cried Aleck.

The main corridor was lined with playthings from all parts of the world.

โ€œAre not the dolls lovely?โ€ Nora said. โ€œAnd each dressed in the costume of the place it came from, too.โ€

โ€œOne would think this was Toy Town itself.โ€ laughed Uncle Jack. โ€œNotice the toys made in the German mountains, and the steam engines, railway cars, and mechanical toys of English and American manufacture.โ€

โ€œAnd see the queer playthings from Egypt, Siam and India,โ€ Ellen added; โ€œand the quaint ones from Sweden and Holland.โ€

Some of these were for the use of the children in the play-rooms, but the rarer ones were only to be looked at. Among the latter, several dolls with which a queen played when she was a little girl were supposed to possess a romantic interest.

โ€œHere is the prettiest part of the exhibit,โ€ called Uncle Jack.

Extending across one end of the corridor was a series of wide windows reaching from the ceiling to the floor. Through them one could see two rooms,โ€”the first darkened, cool and quiet, with little white beds and cradles ranged around its walls; the other bright and airy, with a clear space in the middle and only a few small chairs and tables by way of furniture.

โ€œOh, I know! This is the Crรชche, or Nursery,โ€ began Nora: โ€œHere a mother can leave her baby and get a check for it, as one does for bundles or umbrellas.โ€

The day nursery in the Childrenโ€™s Building. [Image from Bancroft, Hubert Howe The Book of the Fair. The Bancroft Company, 1893.]

They stood looking into the play-room, where several white-capped, rosy-cheeked nursemaids were occupied with their little charges.

One of these trim and capable-looking young women was seated in a low rocking-chair, coddling a curly-haired darling; another held a bowl of bread and milk, from which she was feeding a roguish midget at one of the low tables. It was amusing to see the child shake her head and laugh, showing her white teeth and dimples, and then stamp her restless feet in sport. In the middle of the room three urchins were playing with blocks, and disputing over them, while in a corner two wee tots had a set of tiny dishes and were preparing for a tea-party. A peep into the other room revealed a number of tired babies fast asleep. All the children were obviously well cared for and happy, notwithstanding their occasional infantile tiffs.

In the second story were rooms for kindergarten plays and lessons, and chats about some of the wonderful things to be seen at the World’s Fair; a library of the books that children love best to read; and lastly a cooking school, where little girls were taught to make minute cakes, and puddings and pies, and bake them in the oven of a small stove, with a โ€œtruly fire in it,โ€ as Ellen smilingly said.

On the roof, protected by a high parapet, was the playground, with bats and balls, graces, croquet, and skipping ropes for the children. There were also a few flower-plots to make the place bright and gay; hut only a few, so that there might be plenty of space for running about.

โ€œWe have wandered into Lilliput Land, and no mistake,โ€ Uncle Jack declared. โ€œThe children rule supreme here, and, surely, they are fortunate monarchs,โ€

The Wooded Island. [Image from Bancroft, Hubert Howe The Book of the Fair. The Bancroft Company, 1893.]

From this building, Mr. Barrett and his indefatigable companions rambled over to the Wooded Island of the Lagoon. Here they not only chanced upon a charming rose garden, but discovered, surrounded by acres of Bowers, and half bidden by shrubbery, the Japanese Village.[5]

โ€œWhat dear little houses!โ€ cried Nora. โ€œThey look just like pretty lacquer jewel boxes, with their miniature apartmentsโ€”or compartments, one might say. How funny it must be to live in a dwelling where the walls can be set back or forward when you please, and the ceiling pushed up or down as it suits you! It would seem a good deal like residing in a summer-house, too, I should think.โ€

The Japanese Ho-o-den on the Wooded Island. [Image from Unsere Weltausstellung. Eine Beschreibung der Columbischen Weltausstellung in Chicago, 1893. Fred. Klein Co. 1894.]

The principal object of interest in this settlement, however, was the beautiful Hooden or Phoenix Palace. There were bars across the entrance; but, as the outer walls were all down, as Nora said, a fine view was obtained of the central hall, with its painting, bronzes, wood-carving and rich lacquer.

โ€œThis is a fac-simile of a room in the Nijo Castle, Kioto,โ€ explained Mr. Barrett; โ€œand all this magnificent work was done by carefully chosen artists. The palace is a gift to Chicago from the Emperor of Japan.[6] The structure as a whole is a reproduction of a famous temple, and in form is supposed to represent the Phoenix, or Hoo, the fabulous bird of Japanese mythology. The main part, with its two stories, is the body of the bird, the colonnades are the wings, and the corridor at the rear is the tail. The original temple was begun twelve hundred years ago. Upon its tiled roof are two bronze phoenixes, so flexible that their heads and wings are moved by the wind. In the interior is an altar of pure gold, and the ceiling is inlaid with mother-of-pearl. In front of the edifice is a lovely lotus pond, the lotus being the sacred flower of the Buddhists.โ€

The Horticultural Building, designed by William Le Barron Jenney of Chicago. [Image from Bancroft, Hubert Howe The Book of the Fair. The Bancroft Company, 1893.]

Recrossing the bridge of the Lagoon, the Kendricks and their uncle now proceeded to the Horticultural Building, where they roamed for an hour amid its tall palms, fare plants from every quarter of the globe, and prodigal display of luscious fruits. In the latter section they met with another Liberty Bell made of oranges from California, and also a monstrous orange formed from thousands of the yellow balls of average size.

A Liberty Bell made out of oranges in the California display in the Horticultural Building. [Image from Bancroft, Hubert Howe The Book of the Fair. The Bancroft Company, 1893.]

Having dined, the party sauntered slowly toward the grand Court of Honor.

โ€œI am so glad we are going to stay for the illumination,โ€ said Ellen.

The twilight had already come; and the fair City of Wonders began to deck itself with lights, like the Genius of Beauty donning her jewels. It was indeed fast becoming a city of rainbow tints. Along the broad avenues the star-like electric lights shone forth; and the State Buildings, one after another, cast off the soft, enveloping shadows, and wreathed their porticos and verandas with shining garlands. The Court of Honor alone remained shrouded in the dusk. The grand plaza, however, was black with a concourse of people, and over all there seemed to hang a silence of expectancy. One could not but marvel that a crowd which numbered thousands could be so hushed and quiet.

By a fortunate chance, Mr. Barrett found a vacant settee on the walk bordering on the beautiful sheet of water known as the Basin. He and the girls took possession of it, while Aleck perched upon the balustrade. They had not long to wait. A wave of brilliancy swept over the walls and eaves of the great buildings; across the classic colonnades and triumphal arch of the Peristyle shimmered a golden flame, revealing the noble Quadriga, and the rows of statues of allegorical heroes and animals as marks for javelin rays. The magnificent fountain, with its figures carved as in marble, cast up faint ribbons of spray through a rosy mist; the cascade was transformed into a ladder of violet and amber; while, shining through a film of purple, and pearl, and silver, a gleam of light, like the wings of some bright spirit, touched the surface of the Lagoon, driving away the darkness that had settled upon the still waters. At the same moment there was a burst of joyous melody from the band stationed in the pavilion in the centre of the plaza. The air was filled with music, which alone had been wanting to make the scene ideally perfect.

The girls cried out in delight; Aleck did not speak but drew a deep breath of satisfaction.

Now, along the cornices of the five great buildings and the Peristyle, a glimmering electric thread crept slowly, as if stringing diamonds on its way; and presently each of the magnificent structures was crowned with a diadem of sparkling gems.

โ€œOh, how superb!โ€ said Nora. โ€œAnd the finest of all is the Administration Building.โ€

Anon, a flood of rainbow colors from the search lights in the tall towers, streamed upon the great edifices, making them look, for the moment, like palaces of amethyst and beryl and chalcedony; and the electrical fountains cast high into the air a shower of rubies, agates, and opals; letting them fall, only to catch them up again, like tricksy sprites at play.

As Mr. Barrett. with his nieces and nephew, watched this enchanting spectacle, a gondolaย glided from beneath the shadow of one of the bridges, and stopped near them. Against the prismatic background of the fountains, the lithe figures of the gondoliers, in their graceful costumes, with silken sashes about their waists and bright handkerchiefs twisted jauntily around their heads, could be distinctly seen.

Illumination of the Court of Honor by William Crothers Fitler. [Image from Bancroft, Hubert Howe The Book of the Fair. The Bancroft Company, 1893.]

Uncle Jack hailed and engaged them; and in another minute our party had taken places in the poetic little craft and were floating upon the silent waters. As they approached the eastern extremity of the Basin, Ellen exclaimed:

โ€œLook!โ€

Between the arches of the Peristyle they caught a glimpse of the broad expanse of Lake Michigan, and rising out of its depths like a new world, the glorious sphere of the moon appeared above the horizon.

โ€œCould anything be grander?โ€ said Nora. โ€œNow see how the moonlight, hastening along that shining pathway across the Lake, gilds the columns of the colonnade, and paves its floor with silver.โ€

Too soon, however, this picture was left behind. The gondoliers, with a sweep of their long oars, brought the gondola around the curve of the Basin. Again they faced the Administration Building; but soon, passing through the spray of the fountains and under the bridge, they entered the Lagoon.

โ€œWe may fancy ourselves in Venice,โ€ murmured Ellen, as they passed other splendid palaces, that appeared half in shadow after the brilliancy of the Court of Honor.

โ€œOr at Bangkok, the Venice of the Orient, which, with its innumerable lights and flower boats, and its languorous canals, is said to be a fairyland in the evening,โ€ added Uncle Jack.

โ€œI don’t need to imagine myself anywhere else, for no surroundings could be more beautiful than these,โ€ said Aleck. โ€œOnly I keep asking myself if I am really awake.โ€

The White City of Columbus seemed indeed more dreamlike than ever, as the gondola glided on between banks bordered by marble terraces and redolent with the fragrance of thousands of blossoms. Now they lingered in the shadow, again the rays of the search lights turned in their direction, made the landscape as bright as day; the reflection of the red fire burned in the plaza spread a rosy glow before them on the water, or the rockets, exploding in the sky, sent down a shower of falling stars or golden rain.

โ€œ1 can understand how the pagan maidens of Bangkok, who send adrift the flower boats, imagine it would be bliss to float away in them forever,โ€ Ellen continued.

But even as she spoke the glory of the hour began to pale. The blazing beacons in the towers grew dim, the dazzling splendor of the Court of Honor faded. A dark, moving mass in the distance denoted that the crowd was dispersing.

The boatmen reached the end of the water-course. Uncle Jack and the young people stepped from the gondola and turned to gaze once more upon the panorama. In the azure heavens shone the full moon, as if it were a splendid ship of light, from which the spirit of the Admiral of the Ocean Seas looked forth upon the scene.

Sighing, yet contented, they turned away. It was their last view of the great World’s Fair, and of the City of Wonders.

At Night in the Grand Court by Charles Graham. [Image from Graham, Charles S. The Worldโ€™s Fair in Water Colors. Mast, Crowell & Kirkpatrick, 1893.]


NOTES

[1] โ€œgo first to the Women’s Buildingโ€ This is a common misspellingโ€”in both contemporary and modern sourcesโ€”of the Womanโ€™s Building.

[2] โ€œthe ideal domain of Tennyson’s Princess! โ€ฆ โ€œa palace designed and governed by womenโ€โ€ Alfred Tennysonโ€™s The Princess (1847)ย is a narrative poem about Princess Ida who shuns the world of men and establishes a university for women. Architect Sophia Hayden designed the Womanโ€™s Building, while Bertha Palmer headed the Board of Lady Managers.

[3] โ€œmural paintings are considered remarkably fineโ€ Six large murals inside the Womanโ€™s Building described womanโ€™s evolution from primitive to modern: Mary Fairchild MacMonniesโ€™ Primitive Womanย (on north tympanum), Amanda Brewster Sewellโ€™sย Arcadia, and Lucia Fairchildโ€™sย The Women of Plymouthย (on east wall), which depicted women in the past; and Mary Cassattโ€™sย Modern Womanย (on south wall), Lydia Emmet and Rosina Emmett Sherwoodโ€™sย Art, Science, and Literatureย andย The Republicโ€™s Welcome to Her Daughtersย (on west wall),ย which depicted women of the present era.

[4] โ€œA lady, who had evidently made a study of the subjectโ€ The Model American Kitchen occupied the northwest corner of the second floor and was organized by Mrs. Sarah Tyson Rorer (1849โ€“1937), who championed cooking with corn.

[5] โ€œthe Japanese Village.โ€ Unlike the many โ€œinternational villagesโ€ of the Midway Plaisance, this was not a village attraction, but rather the official Japanese government building.

[6] โ€œThe palace is a gift to Chicagoโ€ The Ho-o-den remained on the Wooded Island until destroyed by fire (likely arson) in 1942.